Is Salt Just Salt?

Not when you’re using salt with cheese and other dairy products according to Rex Infanger who led a Culture Workshop for the Guild in March.

As part of the workshop Mr. Infanger tasted cheeses that some of the workshop participants brought in to share, and he offered his feedback. On one cheese, while he praised it’s texture and overall appearance, he noted a slight “medicinal” flavor to the cheese which he couldn’t place at first until the cheese maker said that they dry salted the wheel with SEA SALT. “Ah,” Infanger nodded. “Any salt with trace amounts of iron in it, like SEA SALT, can produce an off flavor that is the result of fat oxidation reaction with the iron. Infanger recommended using plain salt for all cheese, avoiding all the gourmet salts that contain additional trace minerals, usually iron.

Infanger also talked about the grain type of salt to use for dry salting, and that there were three types to choose from: crystal salt (like table salt), flake salt (like Kosher salt), and Alberger salt which is “cup shaped” and did not dissolve as quickly as crystal or flake salt on the surface of a cheese wheel. He said that many cheese makers prefer the Alberger salt for dry salting because it reduced the risk of introducing too much salt to the surface of fresh curds that it creates a hard seal on the exterior of the wheel preventing salt from quickly reaching the center of the wheel. However, Infanger said that the best choice of salt grain was based on the make process and the cheese maker preference through their own experimentation.

(Alberger salt is typically available through Cargill and distributed in bulk by many food service supply companies — it comes in many sizes of grains, as well as in many mixtures with and without iodine, anti-caking agents, and/or other additives which cheese makers tend to avoid. Diamond Crystal brand would be one example of it in the grocery store, although it may only be available in an iodized version.)

Queso Rexo

This is a recipe that we learned at the Culture Workshop given by Rex Infanger on March 26, 2012. It’s something that he developed as a way of demonstrating cheesemaking techniques in less than an hour. The result is a tasty Queso Fresco type of cheese with a real cultured flavor given the addition of a cultured dairy product to provide instant acidity.

Here is a PDF version of the recipe.

QUESO REXO

Makes about 1 pound cheese in about 55 minutes.

1 gallon milk (whole or skim or anything in between)
1 quart cultured buttermilk (mesophilic) OR active yogurt (thermophilic)
0.5 ml double-strength rennet OR 1.0 ml single strength rennet
2.5% salt by weight of the milled curd

Heat milk to 95 degrees F.

Add rennet. When set firm (which shouldn’t take more than 3 to 5 minutes) immediately cut into 1/2 inch cubes.

Stir curds (VERY gently at first) while you raise the heat to 116 degrees F. Once at 116 degrees stir for 15 minutes.

Drain curds into cheesecloth and press with 5 pounds (while keeping the curds warm) for 15 minutes.

Mill curds into small pieces, weigh them, measure out the 2.5% salt (around 0.5 oz or 15 grams), mix, then pack back into the cheesecloth and press with 5 pounds of pressure again for at least 15 minutes before slicing to taste. If you have the time, allow to remain pressing for a few hours before unmolding.

The cheese is ready to eat immediately.

Goats Galore in VT

As reported by VTDigger.org: Creamery + Foundation will partner to create state’s biggest goat dairy. Vermont Butter and Cheese Creamery is teaming up with the Castanea Foundation and Vermont Technical College to create a 700 – 800 goat dairy farm that will provide more VT milk to VBCC as well as help train future goat dairy farmers as well as provide a better understanding for how goat dairies differ from cow dairies in practices and economics. It’s a great example of how public-private partnerships can benefit an entire industry.